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Before purchasing, I evaluated a few other devices like this one, but it was hard to beat the price (shop around on the internet). I have solved that problem by using an extension cord (rated for the appliance I am measuring).
This is a very good product overall. I have been using it to calculate daily, weekly, monthly, and yearly costs for my various appliances and anything that plugs into a 110V outlet.
I was originally going to buy the P4400, but for just a few bucks more, this P4460 calculates the overall cost of using an appliance for you (you have to input in your utility charge per kwh). For items with intermittent use, I leave it plugged into the device for several days or weeks.One slight negative item is that it does block usage of one outlet when you plug it into a wall outlet.
It really helps in understanding the largest electricity users in your house. This allows you to make intelligent decisions on how best to lower your electricity costs.
The extension cord is also good where the outlet is blocked by the appliance (such as a refrigerator). Plus, this product was determined to be very accurate according to a leading consumer magazine (initials CR).
Electric billing has become a maze of cost factors, riders, flat fees, usage, and demand usage which can vary monthly, that you may need to understand before actually inputting a number into your EZ device. These readings will be different than most regular multimeters. Many utilities hide these fees and costs in their billing and you really can't tell what you are paying per unit cost. A high-powered microwave, washer, some refrigerators (check the amperage rating), space heaters, and even some hair care products may be enough to fry the electronics in this unit.
My Kill-A-Watt registered only the voltage and frequency and showed a power factor of 1 with nothing plugged into it. I tested it in two separate outlets for two days each on separate occasions. Therefore, none of these meters can be expected to be highly accurate. The Kill-A-Watt does need a redesign though, because it blocks outlets, you need to get at just the correct angle to read it, and there is no backlight.
Get yourself a 1-3 foot extension cord. The problem here is that both the Kill-A-Watt and the multimeter use 4 significant figures with a floating decimal point in the display. I think even that other brand available is 4 significant figures, unless you get the software package. For more features, get that other brand. The first thing I did when I got my Kill-A-Watt was plug it in by itself with no load to ensure a non-reading.
If you go to cafeelectric, you can study the inside circuit boards and figure out for yourself how it could be redesigned to allow the unit to be plugged in and not block the other outlet. In the meantime, don't expect the company to ever redesign this product. If you plan on plugging in larger appliances, make sure the cord has at the very least 16 guage wire, but preferably 14 guage. Be careful what you plug into the unit. Or, there's an entire industry revolving around datalogging available through electrical wholesalers and some other suppliers, but I have noticed several electricians doing reviews of the Kill-A-Watt units. I have compared the readings taken to a "TrueRMS" multimeter and the readings are about 2%-3% difference, not the 0.2% accuracy claimed on the package. A couple more things to keep in mind with the EZ model: The internal math used to calculate costs can be inaccurate if not left plugged in long enough, so you may want to spot check the math.
Add the software package to study the actual sine wave signature. It would be a time and money-saver for them, and they still get fairly accurate results. The second thing is, the days of simply dividing cost by kwh to get your rate paid are gone. (Happens with ALL utilities) I also think the timer would be more useful if it recorded actual running time of the plugged in appliance instead of just acting as a stopwatch.
This item was bought for my son so that he could figure out what to unplug when not in use, and how much it would cost to leave something plug-in, or running.
:-)I was amazed at the amount of power my entertainment center used when it was OFF. It is actually next to useless without using an extension cord between the outlet and the Kill-A-Watt.The first two weeks I had it I used it a lot, but after I determined out how much electricity was being used by each appliance, the Kill-A-Watt then collects a lot of dust. It does what it says it does.You definitely need an 3 prong extension cord to work with it because it is very difficult to read when it is plugged into an outlet. I have subsequently unplugged components that are rarely used. I pull it out when I get a new appliance, or when I lend it to someone. I just wish I knew someone who had one, and I could have borrowed theirs. Powered sub-woofers are a real surprise.I've had it a couple years, and I would purchase it again. I believe it has paid for itself.
Some things I thought were energy wasters actually consumed very little power (charging stand for Sonicare toothbrush, paper shredder). Power companies should give these away. Helps you find the truth about your electric use. Other things like home entertainment center (Tivo, PS3, 52-inch Sony TV, WiFi router, amplifier and speaker system) really gobble up the juice. Found the P3 pretty easy to use.
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